Water heater maintenance in Knoxville, flush to relief valve

Water Heater Tank Flush

A flush drains water through the tank's drain valve with the cold supply open, stirring up sediment and carrying it out until the water runs clear. On a tank that has never been flushed, sediment can be heavy enough to clog the drain valve, and we have ways around that. Popping or rumbling while the burner runs is water boiling under a sediment layer, and a flush usually quiets it. On an old, heavily scaled tank, flushing can loosen deposits sealing a weak spot, so we tell you if a tank is that far gone.

Anode Rod Replacement

The anode rod screws into the top of the tank and corrodes on purpose, protecting the steel tank from rusting. When it's down to bare wire, the tank starts to corrode instead. We pull the anode and look: if more than a few inches of core wire shows, it gets replaced. Tight headroom is solved with a segmented rod. Softened water uses up anodes faster, and homes with a rotten egg smell in the hot water often need an aluminum-zinc anode in place of the standard magnesium one.

T&P Relief Valve Test

The temperature and pressure relief valve is the heater's last line of defense: it opens if the tank overheats or over-pressurizes. Valves that are never tested can stick shut with mineral buildup, which is exactly when they are needed. We lift the lever to confirm it opens and reseats without dripping, check that the discharge pipe runs to within a few inches of the floor or to a drain, and replace a valve that sticks or keeps weeping. A valve that drips often is also a sign the house needs an expansion tank.