Well pump repair for Knoxville-area homes with no water

No Water From the Well

No water at any faucet usually traces to one of four things: the breaker or control box, a failed pressure switch, a waterlogged tank that made the switch chatter until it burned, or the pump itself. Sputtering air at the faucets before the water stopped points instead to a falling water level or a leak in the drop pipe. We check power and the switch first, then the tank's air charge, then read the pump's current draw from the surface. That reading shows whether the pump is running, stalled or dead before anything is pulled.

Waterlogged Pressure Tank

A pressure tank holds a cushion of air above a bladder so the pump can rest between cycles. When the bladder fails or the air charge leaks away, the tank fills with water and the pump starts and stops every few seconds whenever a faucet opens. That short cycling burns switch contacts and wears out the pump motor, and you can often hear it as rapid clicking at the switch. We check the pre-charge with the tank drained, recharge it if the bladder holds, or replace the tank and set the switch to match.

Submersible Pump Replacement

When a submersible pump has failed, it comes up with the drop pipe and wire, and the whole assembly is inspected on the way out: splices, torque arrestor, check valve and pipe. The new pump is sized to the well's depth, static water level and the flow the house needs, not simply matched to the old label if that pump was wrong for the well. After it goes back down, we set the pressure switch, confirm current draw against the motor's rating, and disinfect the system before the water is used for drinking.